What Age to Start Training Your Dog
You can start training your puppy as soon as they come home — just keep sessions fun, lighthearted and short (five to 10 minutes) and try to end on a happy note. For older or rescue dogs, it’s not too late to teach them “sit” or any other command, but you might have to undo some naughty learned behaviors and make sure they are physically able to perform the behavior.
Tools and Supplies You’ll Need for Dog Training
- Collar and leash (or slip leash)
- Treat pouch
- Food or high-value treats
- A positive attitude
It’s a good idea to have your dog on a leash during training so that when the time comes, you can quickly and easily guide them.
If you decide to use treats, it can be helpful if it’s something your dog loves. Use the food you normally feed them if they’ll work for it, because you can replace your dog’s feeding time with training. If not, have a tasty treat that is used only for training to make it even more valuable to your dog. Treats should be small (about the size of a pea or dime, depending on their size), quick to eat and don’t crumble. This keeps the momentum going with training and learning. (Note: It’s recommended that calories from treats make up no more than 10% of your dog’s diet.)1
You may also choose to use a clicker to help your dog learn faster. A clicker is a small mechanical noisemaker that “clicks” when your dog does what you’re asking. This tells your dog they’ve done the right thing and that a reward is coming. You could also say “yes,” or “good,” snap your fingers or cluck your tongue. All of these things are called markers because they “mark” the correct behavior.
The key is pairing the click, word or sound with a reward before training. To do this, simply click or say “yes!” and immediately reward your dog 20-30 times in a row. Now, when your dog sits, you click, and they will learn that sitting gets the click, which leads to the reward.
Step-by-Step Guide to Teaching Your Dog to Sit
When your dog is first learning how to sit, ensure they are calm and in a low-distraction environment, like a quiet room or garage. Put other dogs away, too, so there aren’t any extra noses interfering.
Now, let’s break down the step-by-step process of teaching your dog to sit.
Step 1: Get your dog’s attention
Reach in your treat pouch, grab one and show it to your dog. Put it right in front of their nose.
Step 2: Use a treat to lure your dog into a sit position
Slowly lift the treat up and back toward the top of their head, between their ears. As your dog looks up to sniff the treat, their rear end should go down to the ground.
Sometimes a dog will just back up. Don’t push on their back or bottom, just lower your hand down to nose level, take a step back and start the lure over again. If they continue to back up, it can help to be closer to a wall, the couch or something that will stop their backward movement.
Step 3: Reward immediately and praise
As soon as your pup’s rear end hits the floor, mark the behavior (“yes!”) and reward them.
Step 4: Release your dog
Use a release word. This teaches your dog when to get up. You have a couple of options here: “free,” “break,” “OK” and “release” are the most common.
As soon as you reward your dog, say your release word and encourage them to get up by stepping away from them and clapping or tapping your legs. If your dog gets “stuck” in the sit, you may lure them out of position or toss a piece of food after you say the word (make sure you say the release word first!). Try not to make a habit of rewarding the release or else your dog may find more value in getting up as opposed to staying in position.
Repeat steps 1 through 4, 10 to 15 times.
Step 5: Add the verbal cue “sit”
Once your pup seems to understand the idea of the lure and is sitting quickly and consistently, add the cue “sit” just before you start the hand movement. Say the word “sit” once, loud and clearly. Be careful not to repeat it, or your dog may learn to tune you out.
Step 6: Fade the lure and randomize rewards
At this point, your dog should be associating the verbal command “sit” with putting their butt down, so you won’t need to lure them every time; you can just say “sit,” and they’ll sit. This is called fading the lure. However, if you ask for a sit and they’re not responding, definitely help them with a lure, but be sure to make a point to fade it out.
At this time, you can also start randomly rewarding each sit. Think of it like a slot machine (but with better odds). Your dog will keep playing because they never know when you’re going to reward them. It’s not every time (like when you’re first teaching them), but it’s often enough that they’re willing to keep trying. If you stop rewarding your dog at once (a common mistake), they will stop performing the command.
Step 7: Practice the “3Ds” (duration, distance, distractions)
This is the “stay” part of training. Each of these “3D” components will be worked on individually and gradually to set your dog up for success. Your dog will need to wear a leash so you can guide them when they make a mistake.
Note: You do not need to use the word “stay.” This approach uses an implied stay, meaning your dog will learn that “sit” means to put their bottom down and “release” means they can get up. You can still use the word “stay” if you’d like, but it is not necessary.
Duration. This is the first and easiest step to add. Ask your dog to sit. When they do, wait 2 to 3 seconds before rewarding, but don’t release them. Then continue to reward intermittently and randomly every 2 to 5 seconds for a total sit time of about 30 to 60 seconds. You are now teaching your dog that simply staying in this position earns rewards. Release them, then repeat. A good goal is a 60-second sit with 2 to 3 rewards during that time frame.
Distance. Next, you will start to move away from your dog while they remain in position. Ask for a sit. When they do, immediately take one step back, pause for a second, then step forward to them and reward. Repeat this, gradually adding 2 to 3 more steps away, coming back frequently to reward them. You are teaching your dog that even though you are stepping away, if they stay in position, they get paid. After a few repetitions of them doing well, release them and repeat the process. A good goal is for you to be at the end of the leash for about 60 seconds, giving a few rewards during that time (you must return to them to reward). Keep in mind that distance becomes linked with duration, meaning you are now stepping away, and duration is part of the exercise.
Distractions. “Distractions” is an umbrella term that refers to anything in the environment your dog thinks is a reason to get up. The food you’re using to reward your dog acts as a distraction to work them through. Ask your dog for a sit. When they sit, reward them, then gently toss a treat on the ground about 3 feet away. If your dog stays in position, reward them again. If they get up, use the leash to physically stop them from reaching the treat, guide them back into a sit and try again.
Once your dog is responding well and not going for the tossed treats but sitting patiently, you can release them and let them have the treats.
At this point, your dog is learning a few things:
- Breaking the sit without permission will not earn the tossed treats
- Staying in the sit is a guaranteed way to get rewarded
- Listening to you means they will eventually get the tossed treats anyway
This teaches impulse control and patience. A good goal is for your dog to not only ignore the tossed treats but also look at you on their own, even with the treats nearby.
Once you’ve covered the “3Ds,” you can start mixing everything up — tossing food, moving away, staying away longer, etc. This steady progression builds your dog’s confidence and reinforces that paying attention to you is always rewarding, while also preventing the habit of breaking position and tuning you out.
Tip: It can help to have training sessions in place of meal time, when your dog is hungry and more likely to be food motivated.
Step 8: Add corrections and guidance
When you are working on duration, distance and distractions, your dog will likely pop up from their sit. This is both normal and expected. It’s at this point that you want to add corrections.
Here’s how to do it:
- Give a verbal correction marker. This can be “no,” “ah-ah” or “nope.” Pick a word and stick with it.
- Immediately following the “no,” give just enough leash pressure to physically stop your dog from wandering away or getting the tossed food.
- Guide them back into the sit by holding gentle leash pressure upward and slightly back toward their tail (at about a 45-degree angle).
- Tell them “sit” and as soon as they sit, release pressure. The key words here are “gentle” and “guidance.” Yes, you are correcting your dog, but do not yank on the leash or get angry. This is new to them and they are learning. Your goal is to handle them calmly and confidently.
Note: If your dog is consistently popping up and most of your training is spent correcting them, you’ll need to break down each step and focus on gradually increasing difficulty while rewarding more frequently.
Here are a few examples:
- For duration, reward quickly and more frequently during your “sit” window. Instead of a reward every 2 to 5 seconds, reward every 1 to 2 seconds, then increase the time between rewards.
- For distance, start with a half or even quarter step back and reward your dog frequently for staying. Then progress to one full step back, and so on.
- For distractions, drop or place the treat on the ground instead of tossing it. Reward your dog generously for staying, then begin tossing.
Tips for Success When Teaching “Sit”
Even though sit is one of the most basic commands, it may not always be the easiest. When teaching your dog to sit, remember: